Ma’s Kitchen Dim Sum & Noodles is the kind of place where someone will almost certainly lean over from the next table and ask what you’re eating. Everything at the compact and lively City Park restaurant is appealing, from the deep-fried shrimp encased in mini tornadoes of lacy coating to the jiggly coconut pudding in the shape of a cartoon bunny. Dumplings are the darlings at this three-month-old spot, including plump, juicy, handmade xiao long bao, delicate shrimp packets with translucent crystal wrappers, and open-top shumai. They’re a joy to eat—especially with a group, when chopsticks collide over steamer baskets as you joust with your friends over the last bite.

Soup, on the other hand, is more often a solo affair. That’s perfect, because you won’t want to share chef Xi Nuan Zheng’s comforting braised beef noodles (pictured). The broth is deeply meaty and subtly touched with a traditional spice blend, the source of the ginger and white pepper mingling in the steam. Square-cut noodles provide toothsome bounce, and the thin-sliced beef shank strikes a balance of tender and chewy. Hunker over your bowl, slurp to your heart’s content—and don’t let another spoon anywhere near it. 1514 York St., Denver (City Park)