Oh, Telegraph’s three-tiered seafood stack is tempting, and the king trumpet with shishito peppers looks delightful, but the impressive squid-ink vermicelli (pictured) owns the spotlight at this three-month-old Wash Park West spot. Black al dente noodles are swirled neatly with tarragon salsa verde, bay scallops, and Fresno chiles and topped with breadcrumb gremolata and an unbroken egg yolk. “There’s something so striking about it,” executive chef Brian Wilson says. “The bright white bay scallops and bright yellow yolk against the vivid black noodles make it really pretty to look at, and the egg adds an unctuous texture.” Don’t be shy—break into the buttery yolk and stir it all up before coaxing a bite onto your fork. 295 S. Pennsylvania St., 720-440-9846

(Discover more of Denver’s best dishes)

5280 January 2016
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