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The Odometer: Roughly 70 miles, one way from Denver (1 hour, 20 minutes)
When the mountains call, Front Range adventurers tend to load their Subarus and file onto I-70. Don’t follow. Instead, head north to Larimer County, a natural playground for hikers, paddlers, and campers, along with great ways to eat and imbibe post-play.
And we aren’t just talking about Horsetooth Reservoir (one of the area’s best lakes) and Fort Collins (which is worth a weekend visit, too). Larimer County is comprised of more than 50 percent publicly owned land, and Bellvue, Laporte, and Livermore—all smaller communities northwest of Colorado State University’s hometown—boast ample outdoor rec options and a (perhaps surprising) number of creative and cultural opportunities. Bonus: They’re all accessible without steering onto (insert expletive of your choice here) I-70.
Read More: Colorado’s Scenic and Historic Byways: Cache La Poudre/North Park
Jump Ahead:
What To Do in Bellvue
Play in the Cache La Poudre River
Back in the early 1800s, French-Canadian trappers stashed a stockpile of gunpowder in northwestern Larimer County during a raging blizzard. You can still go see the stone slab denoting roughly where it was, but after you snap a selfie, it’s time for fun in the waterway that takes its name from the historic misadventure.
The Cache La Poudre River, known to locals as “the Poudre,” claims fame as Colorado’s only river with a “wild and scenic” designation (similar to a national park honor for free-flowing waterways). To get a true taste of the river (perhaps literally), book a rowdy whitewater rafting trip with A Wanderlust Adventure. Their two- and three-hour guided tours, suitable for ages seven and up, include paddling through roiling rapids with well-deserved monikers like Pinball, Roller Coaster, and Doc’s Drop.
Anglers can cast about for a different type of day on the water. The Poudre plays home to rainbow, brown, and cutthroat trout—in fact, the Colorado Division of Wildlife has named two sections of the river Wild Trout Waters—so bring your rod and your waders and let fly. If you need a fly, swing by St. Peter’s Fly Shop on your way through Fort Collins. Their friendly staff will be happy to provide beta on what’s biting and how to best hook them. If you have the time (and the wherewithal), you can even string your own woolly buggers and bead head caddis in their on-site tie shop.
Read More: How to Play on Colorado’s Only Wild and Scenic River
Make Art
To flex the muscles of your inner artist, book a boot-, sneaker-, or sandal-making class with the Colorado Shoe School. The art hub is owned and operated by shoe gurus Annabel Reader, the former footwear mistress for Cirque du Soleil’s “Luzia” who’s designed costumes for theaters across the state, and Dan Huling, who has created sculptures for the artist series at the Gardens on Spring Creek. Both owners were once circus performers (Huling’s act from New Belgium Brewing’s Tour de Fat in 2011 is a FoCo legend).
Colorado Shoe School offers one- to five-day workshops where you build a work of art you’ll actually want to wear. The team provides all materials (most of which are leather and fabric remnants from the fashion industry otherwise destined for the landfill), as well as the tools and step-by-step (sorry) instruction.
See Live Music
Red Rocks Amphitheatre claims it’s the “best place to see the stars,” but those looking to dance in the moonlight should snag tickets for a show at the Mishawaka Amphitheatre, tucked roughly 10 miles up Poudre Canyon. Established in 1919, more than 20 years prior to its better-known counterpart, the Mish’s outdoor stage welcomes some 50 performers each summer with past notables including the Lumineers and Nathaniel Rateliff. If you can’t make it in for a show, at least swing by for a bite of what owner Dani Grant calls the “best” Reuben and fish-and-chips.
Read More: 12 of the Best Outdoor Music Venues Around Denver and Beyond
Where To Eat in Bellvue, Livermore, and Laporte
Expect homestyle fare just like Grandma used to make when visiting communities near the mouth and well inside the maw of Poudre Canyon. You already know the Mish restaurant’s hand-dipped cod is worth a stop, but so, too, are its slow-cooked pulled pork sandwich and white cheddar Mish Mac ’n’ Cheese (say that five times fast).
North of the canyon in historic Livermore, the Forks is a roadside eatery built back 1875 and then rebuilt (minus the original hotel) with community funds in 1985 after a devastating fire. There, guests start with one of five varieties of house specialty tots before tucking into handhelds like the parm-and-bacon-topped Trail Boss or Vaquero, featuring roasted hatch chiles.
About 14 miles south on Highway 287, Vern’s Place in Laporte is another longstanding dining venue. Opened by two brothers in 1946 (guess which one got to name it), Vern’s serves breakfast benedicts, salads and sammies for lunch, and dinner entrees like Colorado trout and meatloaf. For something sweet, try their cinnamon roll or drive two minutes down the road to Me Oh My Coffee and Pie for an ever-rotating menu of scratch-made key lime, cherry bourbon, traditional apple, and other seasonally inspired pies.
Where To Drink
Even black coffee purists should make an exception at Howling Cow Cafe, located on-site at Bellvue’s Morning Fresh Dairy. All their espresso drinks feature fresh milk from the nearly 1,300 cows mooing nearby. (Personally thank them on the 60-minute farm tour.) Add a container of Australian-style Noosa yoghurt (made on the farm) or go big with the Udder Flight, which includes four five-ounce glasses of whole, chocolate, and root beer-flavored milk, along with the daily special.
When it’s time to relax, post up at Blendings Winery in north Fort Collins. Assuming you’ve made a reservation (they’re required), the barback will encourage you to sample (maybe the whimsical sweetness of a featured wine like the Candy Kiss) before ordering. When you commit, create a flight of rich reds, which pairs more traditional varietals like malbec and tempranillo with unique options like blackberry merlot, or a grouping of lighter whites likely to include chardonnay plus the citrussy brightness of an albarino.
Where To Stay in Bellvue
Roosevelt National Forest offers numerous campgrounds, but those heading to a late-night show at the Mish will find no better place to hang their hat than the new-this-summer Riverside Colorado. Their collection of glamping tents, cabins, and tiny homes (one with a slide!), along with three community fire pits, are nestled along the Poudre on national forest land.
Riverside is well positioned for fly fishing (on-site) and hiking (try the Hewlett Gulch Trail for a chill ascent less than a mile up CO 14) and offers free shuttles to and from the Mish. If you realize you forgot an essential, Riverside’s Poudre Park Pantry has snacks and sunscreen, while their Kind Bean Coffee Cart will curb your caffeine craving.
If You Do One Thing in Northwest Larimer County…
Tiptoe through the dahlias and zinnias on your way back to Denver. Native Hill Farm’s roadside stand, located just outside Laporte, offers you-snip flowers for a gorgeous gift or fragrant souvenir.
Read More: 8 Places To Pick Your Own Flowers Around the Front Range
