Hedge Row

Eating your vegetables isn’t a chore at four-month-old Hedge Row—in fact, it’s the main draw. A new endeavor from the team behind the Kitchen and Next Door eateries, this Cherry Creek spot uses a wood oven to transform seasonal, often local veggies into tempting plates. Sure, the porchetta sandwich and mole-braised short ribs are appealing, too, but the carrots—wood-roasted and piled atop creamy ricotta and a punchy dill gremolata—are a standout. Ditto the vegetarian entrée: a rainbow of roasted sweet potatoes, gingered tomatoes, cauliflower, and bok choy in a lime vinaigrette over White Mountain Farm’s Colorado-grown quinoa. The fresh food feels right at home in the bright space, which borrows design elements from the Kitchen (white subway tile, wood everywhere) to create a polished yet casual feel that’ll make you wish every day was Meatless Monday. 100 Steele St., 720-642-8292, hedgerowbistros.com

ChowSun

Filipino cuisine has been gaining traction nationally for a few years, and Denverites in the know go to Aurora’s Filipino-Thai joint ChowSun to get their fix. Housed in a nondescript strip mall, the four-year-old fast-casual eatery serves a full Thai menu, but we go for the bold, pork-centric Filipino fare, which marries Spanish and southeastern Asian influences. Our ideal meal starts with “lumpia” (crispy Filipino-style egg rolls) dipped into sweet chile sauce. Next, a savory-and-sour bowl of pork adobo or indulgent “lechon kawali” (fried cubes of juicy pork belly) served with a Filipino staple: fluffy steamed white rice. For dessert, order the halo halo sundae, a layered shaved-ice treat made with “ube” (purple yam) ice cream, sweetened condensed milk, red coconut jelly, jackfruit, and coconut slivers. 830 S. Buckley Road, Aurora, 720-410-2135

5280 November 2017
5280 November 2017
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Emmerson

The owners of two-month-old Emmerson on Boulder’s Pearl Street like to call it a “neo-bistro,” a nod to Parisian spots breaking from stiff, Michelin-star-driven traditions in favor of relaxed, chef-owned eateries with approachable food. At Emmerson, the concept manifests as a daytime cafe, a cocktail bar, and an upscale dinner venue. It’s a gorgeous space, with a marble-topped pastry case and bar and gold-flaked light bulbs that dangle above a long community table. Michelin-starred chef-partners Michael Gibney and Jeb Breakell offer delectable baked goods; sit-down breakfast and lunch fare; and dinnertime dishes such as sweet potato gnocchi with maitake mushrooms, uni, and blue cheese. Add to that drinks from renowned cocktail curator Nancy Kwon, and Colorado’s first neo-bistro is laid-back by day and the most ambitious new restaurant in Boulder at night. 1600 Pearl St., Suite 100, 303-953-9852, emmersonrestaurant.com

This article was originally published in 5280 November 2017.
Callie Sumlin
Callie Sumlin
Callie Sumlin is a writer living in Westminster, and has been covering food and sustainability in the Centennial State for more than five years.
Claire Lardizabal
Claire Lardizabal
Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen is 5280’s former food editor. She oversaw all of 5280’s food-related coverage from October 2016 to March 2021.