When it comes to chicken wings, I’ve always been in the take-it-or-leave-it category; I don’t dislike the bar staple, I just don’t go searching for it. Alas, Ace Eat Serve‘s tiger wings (pictured) have changed all that. I first tried the beguiling snack a couple weeks ago, and now I can’t stop thinking about the tigers’ trifecta of salty, sweet, and crispy. The flavor punch (and stickiness) comes from fish sauce—the famously funky and complex Asian condiment—while the crispiness comes from three separate dips in the fryer. Owner Josh Wolkon, a self-proclaimed wing lover, says Ace’s offering is an ode to the signature dish at wildly popular Pok Pok in Portland, Oregon.

Tip: For the more timid, Ace also serves naked wings. These are triple-fried like their brethren and then left pretty much alone.

501 E. 17th Ave., 303-800-7705

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Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.