When the Squeaky Bean reopened in June, an expanded cheese menu was a central part of the makeover. Owner Johnny Ballen and executive chef Max Mackissock refabbed a bar cart into a movable cheese station; stocked with goods from the Truffle Cheese Shop, servers wheel the display from table to table and diners can choose three-, four- or five-ounce servings of fromage, plus accompaniments such as a tangy mostarda and house-made crackers. The dozen-or-so cheeses change weekly, but there’s always a good mix of cow, goat, and sheep’s milk varieties. Tip: If Lamborn Bloomers is available, don’t miss it. This creamy and soft goat’s milk cheese from Avalanche Cheese Company in Basalt is reminiscent of buttery and decadent Robiola. 1500 Wynkoop St., 303-623-2665, thesqueakybean.com

October 14–19: Check out 5280.com’s take on EATDenver’s Harvest Week pop-up dinners. eatdenver.com

5280 October 2012
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