Pizza is complicated. It’s easy to scarf down a slice covered with as many add-ons as the crust can handle. But truth be told, the best ’za should have no more than three toppings. The Margherita is the true test of a pizza joint because, in lazy hands, simple becomes bland and boring. When I sat down at Right Coast Pizza’s polished wooden bar and ordered a slice of Laughing Buffalo, the Wheat Ridge spot’s take on the classic, I was eager to see the end result.

Right Coast—so named for the New Jersey-inspired eats—didn’t disappoint. The red sauce had enough garlic bite that, when combined with fresh basil, it gave the pie an herbaceous backbone that showcased the mozzarella. I paired my slice with a Buster Nut Brown from Ska Brewing, which woke up the toasty crust without overwhelming the rest of the pie. While this pizza toes the line between New York thin and too thin, it’s filling enough to leave you satisfied. No lazy kitchen here—I’ll be back.

7100 W. 38th Ave., 303-431-6077