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When a Taiwanese guest at new Five Points eatery Pig and Tiger ordered shaved ice for dessert, she had no idea that she’d be overcome with nostalgia. Afterward, she called chefs Darren Chang and Travis Masar over to her table to share that it sparked memories of her favorite childhood snack. The pineapple and Thai basil flavors of that shaved ice captured tradition, while twists added by the chefs—like almond panna cotta and almond crunch sprinkled on top—introduced something new. “We want to pay respects to tradition while also making it approachable to guests,” Chang says.
Pig and Tiger, which got its start in 2020 at Avanti Food & Beverage in Boulder, is the culmination of the founders’ wildly different experiences with Asian food. Chang was born and raised in Los Angeles after his parents immigrated from Taiwan. His family made home-cooked meals like zhajiangmian (saucy pork noodles) and lu rou fan (braised pork rice), both now featured at the restaurant.
Masar, on the other hand, grew up in southeastern Colorado, where the only Asian cuisine was typical American-Chinese takeout. His appreciation for Taiwanese cuisine came later, through mentors, partners, and a trip to Taiwan that opened his eyes to the depth of flavors and cultural practices around dining. “It felt very similar to how I was raised—that everybody sat down, everybody waited to eat together, everybody left together,” Masar says.
When it comes to creating dishes for Pig and Tiger’s menu, Chang and Masar take inspiration from Taiwanese foods they’ve eaten for decades (in Chang’s case) or that they’ve recently learned about, and then they think about their customers. “That’s the first step we take—just making sure that it’s something relatable to people,” Chang says.
This blurring of lines is symbolic of the two chefs’ collaborative style, honed while working under Top Chef season 11 finalist Shirley Chung at her Los Angeles restaurant Ms. Chi. Masar met Chung as a co-contestant on Top Chef, and she later recruited him as executive chef when Ms. Chi opened. Chang came aboard as sous chef and the two immediately hit it off. One night over post-shift drinks, they landed on the idea of bringing more Asian cuisine to Denver—a city they were both familiar with and knew was ready for more options.
The L.A. beef roll—a make-your-own taco-style dish with beef shank, tongue, and charred scallion tortillas—is a great example of their combined styles, and reminiscent of their time together in Los Angeles. “We’re blurring the lines of what is Taiwanese and what is American food and just offering something delicious,” Chang says.
The Taiwanese fried chicken—a gluten-free option—is another such interpretation. While Chang and Masar originally wanted to prepare it with a large, flattened cutlet like the versions they tried in Taiwanese street markets, they opted for the more American-style bone-in breast, wing and leg combo, which keeps the chicken more moist.
Sourcing the right ingredients is a constant challenge. Many staples can’t be found through distributors, so they rely on Asian markets and brand-specific imports. Recent tariffs have made that harder. A Taiwanese beer they wanted for opening weekend stopped shipping to the U.S., forcing Masar to scour shelves and stockpile the last remaining cases. The imported Sichuan peppercorns and pickled mustard root that give the wonton dumplings their distinct tang and tingle have gone up in price. Other recipes, like their broccoli with black soy sauce, require adjustments when the soy sauce brand they love isn’t available. “We’ll sit with the cooks and say ‘we need a little more sugar’ or ‘this soy sauce is too sour,’ just balancing and trying to bring back the flavor we’re looking for,” Masar says.
The decision to open in Five Points was just as intentional. They found what they were looking for in a corner unit with good parking that was close to music venues and nightlife but outside the bustle of RiNo. So far, the gamble has paid off. Families with kids, concertgoers, date-night couples, and foodies have all filled the space.
“We don’t want to be labeled just a neighborhood restaurant or a destination,” Chang says. “We just want to be a fantastic restaurant people want to go to.”
Pig and Tiger tells both chefs’ stories—Chang’s heritage, Masar’s discoveries, and the passion that brought them together. “It’s all about making experiences,” Masar says. “Either a gluten-free person being able to have incredibly tasty and crispy fried chicken or having someone try something in a way they’ve never had it before, that’s what matters.” 2200 California St., Denver
