I eat a lot of sushi in the summer. Cool sashimi, spicy wasabi—these light bites satisfy without slowing me down. But like many sushi fans, I often fall into the rut of ordering the same items over and over again. When this happens, I head to Sushi Sasa for inspiration.

Case in point: Last week at dinner, I began with the seaweed salad. Instead of the expected straightforward green fronds in sesame vinaigrette, executive chef and owner Wayne Conwell‘s dish included a trio of multicolored seaweed—green, black, and yellow—tossed with tamari vinaigrette, and topped with sesame seeds and sliced apple. The flavors were bright, the textures were crunchy, and the tamari lent a pleasing umami note.

From there, I went with the Sasa trio (pictured). A round of clearly delineated spicy raw tuna, salmon tartare, and yellowtail poke arrived with house-made sushi rice crackers for scooping. In true Sushi Sasa style, the traditional ingredients—raw fish and rice—were presented an unexpected and thoughtful way.

To drink, I ordered one of the best sushi pairings there is: rosé Champagne. More specifically: Moet & Chandon’s Rosé Imperial. Yes, it’s a splurge. But the tiny bubbles, pale blush color, and light, dry strawberry taste make this particular wine ideal for a summer meal of lightly spiced, raw fish.

2401 15th St., 303-433-7272