The Obsession: Moxie Bread Co.’s King Cake

Forget the lovefest associated with this month’s most notorious (and exclusionary) holiday. There’s a better way to celebrate: Channel the Mardi Gras spirit with Moxie Bread Co.’s king cake. The Louisville bakery’s owner, Andy Clark, was undeterred by the fact that Carnival season (which began with Epiphany on January 6) isn’t widely celebrated here when he put a version of the sweet staple on Moxie’s menu for the first time in 2017. Rather than producing the doughy, multicolored, sugar-crusted classic—the pastry equivalent of mass-market Mardi Gras beads—Clark took a sophisticated, French-inspired approach. The result, available through Fat Tuesday (February 13 this year) for $25, is a massive “kouign-amann” (a flaky pastry even more buttery than a croissant) filled with tart raspberries and almond frangipane. As for the plastic baby figurine customarily hidden inside? Clark includes an heirloom bean—on the side, wrapped in vintage sheet music—that you can tuck into the pastry. Find the legume in your slice and Clark deems you king for the day. But if you ask us, everyone who tastes this divine dessert will feel like a royal. 641 Main St., Louisville, 720-420-9616