When Chile Verde, the Pueblan restaurant once located at the corner of 37th and Tejon, closed its doors in December 2012, I was crushed. The LoHi restaurant was one of my favorite places for authentic, regional Mexican fare. Brothers Eder and Hanzel Yañez attributed the closure to a rift with the landlord over building improvements and insisted they were looking for a new location. But I never believe a relocation story until I see it.

Last week, I did more than just see it: Once again I tasted what makes Chile Verde so special. The brothers, who employ many of their mother’s family recipes, are serving the same well-executed Pueblan fare in their new location at 23rd and Federal. There were many standout moments from my dinner there, a warming bowl of posole among them. The flavorful, well-seasoned soup is made of house chicken broth and guajillo and serrano chiles. It’s studded with chunks of fall-apart-tender pork shoulder and cheek, and soft but still toothsome hominy kernels. Served on the side—as is traditional south of the border—were garnishes of shaved lettuce, diced onion, sliced radish, oregano, crushed peppers, and a lime wedge.

Punctuated by the same bright green wall, the new location is a simple, straightforward dining room without some of the “character” of the old building. But that’s a good thing for the Yañez family, who can spend less time on repairs and more attention on their superb menu and charming, informed service.

Cocktail pairing: If it takes more than a bowl of soup to warm you up on a cold night, don’t miss the menu of nine margaritas. I’m a classicist and prefer Chile Verde’s unadulterated signature margarita; those who are more adventuresome with their tequila should try the Brazilian, a well-balanced combination of tequila, cachaça, lime juice, and cane sugar.

2311 Federal Blvd., 720-287-2296

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