A metaphorical ocean breeze has been infusing Lincoln Park with Caribbean vibe ever since Wah Gwaan Brewing Company debuted last June. Harsha Maragh, a first-generation American from a long line of Indian Jamaicans, and Jesse Brown, who is African American, are honoring Maragh’s roots and mixing up the monochromatic craft beer industry, which, nationwide, is 93 percent white-owned. “A huge part of opening this brewery for us was increasing diversity of ownership,” Maragh says. “Part of it is being a voice for other communities: the African American community, the first-generation American community, the Caribbean community.” Wah Gwaan—a common Jamaican greeting that translates to “What’s up?”—hosts events, such as an August 6 Jamaican Independence Day bash, in its vibrant venue bedecked with murals of famous reggae musicians by local artist Chelsea Lewinski. The representation the duo hopes to increase is also apparent in the taps, where the couple and head brewer Dickie Tucker use ingredients such as tamarind and Scotch bonnet peppers to create suds that impart a sand-between-your-toes feeling. Sip on the sweet, durian-steeped Like a Boss hefeweizen or the crisp, jackfruit-forward Trop Queen kölsch—no plane ticket required.

This article was originally published in 5280 May 2022.
Riane Menardi Morrison
Riane Menardi Morrison
Riane is 5280’s former digital strategy editor and assistant food editor. She writes food and culture content. Follow her at @riane__eats.