Usually, the word “luchador” conjures the boldly masked athletes who participate in a Mexican style of pro wrestling. In Denver, though, the term has taken on a much more delicious connotation. Ever since chef Zuri Resendiz, who came up in local fine-dining restaurants like Cattivella, launched the Luchador Food Truck by Chef Z in 2022, he has dazzled Front Rangers with his casual yet expertly executed dishes that draw on his native Mexico’s street cuisine.

In August, Resendiz parked his wheels at Luchador Taco & More, a cozy brick-and-mortar location in Whittier where diners can enjoy his colorful, flavor-packed fare under the gaze of a luchador mural. As the name suggests, the tacos are title-worthy: The pulpo (octopus) al pastor is even better than the porky predecessor, especially when joined by avocado purée and habanero-pineapple salsa.

5280 November 2024
More From The Issue

In the “more” category are composed plates, some of which explore the cuisine of Peru, Resendiz’s wife’s home country. For example, the lomo saltado—filet mignon stir-fried with tomato, onion, and potatoes—and causa tartare, which comprises chile-infused potato mash, finely diced steak, and crispy sweet potato layered into a tower, are both elegantly plated homages to classic Peruvian dishes. And because they complement, rather than fight with, the rest of the menu’s Mexican flavors, the only thing you must wrestle with is how many courses you can stomach.

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This article was originally published in 5280 November 2024.
Ethan Pan
Ethan Pan
Ethan Pan is 5280’s associate food editor, writing and editing for the print magazine and 5280.com. Follow his dining/cooking Instagram @ethans_pan.