It can be difficult for restaurateurs to see the forest for the trees. When Mike Huggins and Lenka Juchelkova took over the former home of Beatrice & Woodsley, though, they immediately knew the 46 aspen trunks that seem to grow right out of the South Broadway space’s floorboards fit into their vision for La Forêt. “We tried to retain its essence,” says Huggins of the cabin-themed restaurant that closed during the pandemic, “the experience of feeling like you’re dining in the forest.” In fact, the husband-and-wife duo leaned in even further, adding more greenery to their French eatery and cocktail bar. The beverage program, directed by Williams & Graham alum Jason Patz, adds to the whimsical atmosphere.

Start with the 4 to 5 p.m. pastis hour, during which you can try the absinthelike spirit in a traditional setup with water and ice, then stay for executive chef Dominic Curry’s luxurious renditions of French classics on the dinner menu. The stag au poivre—elk backstrap rubbed with warm, charred spices and served with a black peppercorn sauce—pairs nicely with the dehydrated-truffle-dusted shoestring potatoes and the Sun King, a cognac cocktail with apricot eau de vie, dry curaçao, and Bigallet China-China liqueur.

5280 July 2024
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This article was originally published in 5280 July 2024.
Ethan Pan
Ethan Pan
Ethan Pan is 5280’s former associate food editor. Follow his dining/cooking Instagram @ethans_pan.