Before Julie Grother opened Sassafras American Eatery at 2637 W. 26th Street, the Jefferson Park Victorian was a revolving door of restaurants (including the short-lived Gordo Loco).

But with a focus on modern Southern cooking and efficient, neighborly service, Sassafras sparkles with the kind of quality and easy comfort that could finally turn this location into a hotspot.

High notes are everywhere on chef Colin Mallet‘s brunch/lunch menu. For lunch, try the well dressed chicken confit salad (pictured) with Haystack Mountain goat cheese, local and organic arugula, toasted walnuts, and dried berries. For brunch, don’t miss the fried green tomato Benedict. The stack of lightly breaded green tomatoes, local greens tossed with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, and poached eggs come draped in tangy hollandaise. Paired with spicy, house-made cornbread and a cheesy potato casserole, it’s a hearty start to lazy summer mornings.

Save Room: Sassafras’ milk shake options get creative and playful. Of note the pink and white animal cookie flavor.

2637 W. 26th St., 303-433-0080