With temperatures dipping, nothing tastes better than rustic Italian comfort food pulled straight from a blazing wood fire. That is exactly what you’ll find at Gallo di Nero, a new eatery in the Golden Triangle where the flames of a 600-degree wood oven lick nearly every dish.

In an ironic twist, Gallo di Nero (named for the famed black rooster of Tuscany) rose from the ashes after the former eatery, known as Fired Up, suffered a fire in late August. After significant repairs, Josh and Jessica Barhaug’s venture reopened this fall with a new name, a revamped menu, and new personnel. The talented chef Darren Pusateri (an alum of the Squeaky Bean, Ototo, Izakaya Den, Luca D’Italia, and Frasca) came aboard. In addition, Joshua Williams (Black Pearl) jumped in behind the bar and Noel Martin (Luca D’ Italia, Izakaya Den, and the Black Pearl) joined on as the general manager.

Pusateri coaxes exceptional flavor and juiciness out of his proteins, particularly the wood-fired rib-eye for two and the organic chicken roasted with lemon and fresh herbs. But don’t just rush to the entrées when you can linger over “chicken noodle soup” with truffled chicken mousse, tender gnocchi, braised root veggies, and a rich broth poured from a tiny French press. Or, take time to savor my personal favorite, the creamy polenta (pictured) topped with a fresh tomato sauce, house-made Italian sausage, Parmigiano-Reggiano, herbs, and a perfectly poached farm-fresh egg.

1135 Bannock St., Denver, 303-825-1995