Although the space at 1294 S. Broadway, has gone from Bistro One to Three Monkeys Cantina to Adelitas Cocina y Cantina in just under two years, the latter has staying power. This family-owned Mexican restaurant, which is named for the brave women soldiers of the Mexican Revolution (today the word also refers to women of great strength and courage) has the Ayala family and veteran restaurateur Brian Rossi behind it.

Chef Silvia Ayala, the matriarch of the family and an adelita in her own right, demonstrates her strength behind the burners, cooking from-scratch family recipes from her homeland in Michoacán. Of note, the tamalitos (pictured) with medallions of masa wrapped around your choice of chile-rojo marinated pork or chicken marinated in a Michoacano version of chili verde. The appetizer arrives drizzled with sour cream, topped with a crumble of queso fresca and served with a side of chipotle crema. Follow those with the tender carne asada, which is marked by the grill and served with silky house-made refried beans, guacamole, and a moderately spicy jack cheese enchilada.

Tip: Pair dinner with one of 50 reasonably priced tequilas. Or stop in for Monday Happy Hours (3 to 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. to close) when margaritas are two-for-one.

1294 S. Broadway, 303-778-1294