On a recent evening with 20 minutes to kill before a dinner reservation, I popped into the Truffle Table on the corner of 15th and Umatilla in LoHi. The two-month-old wine and cheese spot (located in the former home of the Cellar Wine Bar) is owned by Karin and Rob Lawler of the Truffle Cheese Shop in Cherry Creek.

Over a glass of the hard-to-find Jean Vullien brut rosé, I perused the menu—think grilled cheese and burrata with fruit terrine—and cheese list. On a narrow slip of paper that you tick off like ordering pieces of sushi, the 30-cheese list includes each cut’s country and region of origin, whether the selection is raw or pasteurized, the animal from which the milk came, and whether vegetable or animal rennet was used to curdle the milk during the cheese-making process. What impressed me the most, however, was general manager and cheesemonger Miguel Vera’s keen ability to describe wines and dishes. Any time someone can talk Mondeuse (a blending grape from Savoie, France) or describe Piedmont’s Castelmagno cheese as a cross between bananas and lager, I’m sold.

My only concern about the Truffle Table is its hours. Always eager to order a wedge of cheese for dessert, my dinner date and I returned after our nearby meal to find Vera locking the door at 10 pm. While I may not be able to turn the Truffle Table into a regular post-dinner stop, you can bet that when evenings turn chilly I’ll be making an entire meal out of Raclette (pictured), which is offered on Wednesday nights for $40 a couple.

2556 15th St., 303-455-9463

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—Image courtesy of McCall Burau, Lucky Malone Photography