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Melissa Keosann didn’t always know she was a denim whisperer. The 42-year-old worked as a bartender for years before opening Boulder’s LOV’D, which stands for Library of Vintage Denim, in October 2023, and at first, she relied on a tape measure to find her clients’ dimensions. “Then one day, I accidentally buried my tape measure in the jeans that are on this countertop,” Keosann says, pointing to piles of whitewashed, boyfriend, and bootcut styles. Rather than search for that needle in a jean stack, Keosann winged it. “I was like, Wait, I’m actually better at eyeballing it than I am with measuring,” she says.
Now, Keosann can select someone’s dream denim from her stock of roughly 3,000 Levi’s and Wranglers—all of which are at least 20 years old—just by glancing at their body shape. She identifies common pain points (like gaping at the waist or a too-snug fit in the thighs) and pulls styles that sidestep those discomforts.
She works her magic on a one-on-one, appointment-only basis in her cozy studio, where her clients share their style preferences, spend an hour playing dress-up, and hopefully walk away with a pair of trusty trousers (all jeans at LOV’D are $259). Keosann’s consultations are free, but in case you decide to sift through thrift store racks on your own, here are some of her top tips for finding the right fit.
5 Tips for Finding the Perfect Pair of Vintage Jeans
1. Prioritize comfort.
It’s 2025, and we are not buying standing-only jeans anymore. “A good-looking pair of jeans does not have to be tight or uncomfortable,” Keosann says. When you’re trying on potential pantaloons, make sure you can sit, stand, bend over, and maybe even boogie without ripping a seam.
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2. Have an open mind.
You may have been rocking low-rise skinny jeans since the early 2000s, but that doesn’t mean you can’t expand your repertoire. Grab your go-tos, but throw in a style or two you don’t normally wear. You may discover that you’ve grown into those cropped mom jeans.
3. Look for 100 percent cotton.
One indicator of vintage denim is undiluted cotton content; modern, mass-produced jeans often incorporate lyocell and polyester. Though 100 percent cotton jeans may feel stiff at first (depending on how worn they are), the fabric is more durable and molds to your body over time for a one-of-a-kind fit.
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4. Retry before you buy.
First impressions are tough. Keosann encourages her clients to give jeans another chance if the first try-on left them on the fence. Coming back to a pair after wiggling into a few others gives you more perspective and often helps you home in on the fit and feel you want. In other words, retrying prevents regret.
5. Go with tried-and-true.
Barrel, boyfriend, and baggy jeans will all come and go, but some styles are timeless. As you’re rifling through the racks, look for clean silhouettes that you can easily dress up or down. For many, Levi’s 501s are a classic closet staple because of their high waists and straight legs.
