Known more for its eye candy than its food, Earls Restaurant and Bar opened its third (and most stylish) Denver outpost in Cherry Creek North last week. But beyond the hip decor and gorgeous waitstaff, I wanted to find out if the global menu was a draw in itself.

One dish, the jeera chicken curry, made me a believer. Packed with tender, juicy chicken in garam marsala, garlic, onion, ginger, chiles, and its namesake, jeera (cumin seed), this moderately hot curry is a symphony of robust flavors and spices. Served with coconut jasmine rice and puffy, buttery naan, it’s a dish that could easily lure me back to Earls again and again.

Cherry Creek: 201 Columbine St., Ste. 100, 303-320-3275

Downtown: 1600 Glenarm Place, 303-595-3275

Park Meadows: 8335 Park Meadows Center Dr., Lone Tree, 303-792-3275