Last year, Wayne and Debbie Anderson took over Cilantro Mary, a funky Mexican restaurant in downtown Lyons, with the goal of breathing new life into the local dining scene. They brought in executive chef Todd Garston (from the now-closed SOBO American Bistro) and chef de cuisine Ian Rubenoff (formerly of Q’s Restaurant) to implement a farm-fresh menu. And this month, the couple rebranded the spot as Lyons Fork.

While the new concept has stepped up the eatery’s finesse, the focus remains unclear. At times, the ever-changing menu feels contemporary American, with nicely plated dishes such as lamb carpaccio with Parmesan tuiles, fresh arugula, local microgreens, and a drizzle of lemon truffle oil. Other times, such as during brunch, the menu is all over the board, with everything from pulled-pork gyros to croissant breakfast sandwiches. All the offerings boast delicious flavors, but the lack of a unifying theme belies the strong kitchen talent.

The beverage selection, however, is razor-sharp. Choose from a well-edited collection of small-batch craft beers, or try a spicy Bloody Mary or killer margarita.

450 Main St., Lyons, 303-823-5014