Best Restaurants 2018: Call

Call is the brainchild of three food industry pros—Craig Lieberman of 34 Degree Crisps and Duncan Holmes and Allison Anderson, both formerly of Frasca Food and Wine—who have channeled their hospitality experience and passion for Scandinavian-inspired fare into a whimsical cafe. When you walk into the bright, cheerful tiny-house restaurant, you’ll find a bountiful array of sweet and savory treats arranged like jewels along Call’s front counter; there will be fruit-filled galettes and cheese-topped tartines, grain salads and “aebleskiver” (puffy, spherical pancakes) with fresh ricotta and house-made preserves. Each dish will be a siren, tempting you to order more. There will be espresso drinks and turmeric tonics and an intentionally small but exciting wine and cocktail list. And if you don’t park yourself on the mural-adorned patio, you’ll sit just across the counter from Call’s talented cooks and friendly servers, inevitably chatting with them as they deliver your food. Call is doing something delicious and different and daring, and you shouldn’t miss a bite. $, 2845 Larimer St., 303-954-0230