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When Frank Bonanno opened Salt & Grinder, his New Jersey-style deli, in Highland two weeks ago, the first item I ordered was the egg salad. Here’s why: No self-respecting sandwich shop can call itself a deli without a decent egg salad.
The good eateries refrain from over-boiling the eggs, overdoing the mayo, and over-mashing the delicate mixture, all with the understanding that the combination must retain some bite and heft. And then, the really good shops add something special to the mix—maybe yogurt or crème fraîche for tang and balance, curry powder for interest, or currants and nuts for texture—just to make it memorable.
At Salt & Grinder, Bonanno’s just-this-side-of-classic version could easily become my staple order: Bonanno mixes equal amounts of mayo and crème fraîche with perfectly cooked eggs, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper, and fresh tarragon from his home garden. The salad comes slathered high on a Grateful Bread Co. grinder and bolstered with shredded iceberg and a slice of tomato. This is an egg salad that satisfies—which is why it’s already one of the deli’s top sellers.
3609 W. 32nd Ave., 303-945-4200
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