Row 14 had been open only a week when we dashed in to try chef and partner Arik Markus’ five-spice duck crêpes. Four months later, we’re still obsessed with the nuanced mash-up of Asian and French flavors and textures, which calls to mind a refined mu shu pork. Row 14’s starter arrives as two delicate coconut crêpes folded over a smattering of pulled duck confit, tinged with the cinnamon-anise notes of five spice. Crispy napa cabbage slaw and a judicious amount of hoisin cut with lime juice offer important, balancing brightness. It may not be dainty, but we pick up the crêpes for a better chance of scoring that perfect sweet-and-savory, crunchy-and-chewy bite. No one has scolded us yet.

Row 14 Bistro & Wine Bar, 891 14th St., 303-825-0100, www.row14denver.com

5280 July 2011
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This article was originally published in 5280 July 2011.
Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.