J Marie Saison, River North Brewing Company, Denver

Style: Saison/Farmhouse Ale

ABV: 7.5 percent

Serving Type: 22-ounce bomber

Malty? Hoppy? Very little hop bite; a delicate maltiness.

Reviewed: July 2012

We’re ashamed to admit we haven’t made it over to the River North Brewery yet. So when we spotted River North’s beer in bombers on the shelves of Argonaut during a recent beer run, we were ecstatic. There were three to choose from: a Belgian-style double IPA, a Belgian quad, and this saison. All three brews peaked our interest, but we were in the mood for something lighter to quench our summer thirst, so we opted for the J Marie Saison.

We poured the beer into a snifter, and got a taste of what the River North Brewers were going for with this particular saison: simplicity. Two types of malt, one kind of hop, and pure saison yeast. That’s it. The beer pours a rich golden, almost orange, color. The nose is filled with grassy notes, as well as a little yeast. The taste is straightforward, just like the brewers wanted: crisp and dry, with hints of lemon zest and straw. Another in the long line of Colorado beers fit for a hot summer day.

Would we buy it again? When we’re in the mood for a saison, J Marie is now on the list of brews we’ll consider.