When it comes to brunch, vegans have it pretty rough. With staples like eggs Benedict, French toast, and bacon off the table, vegans are often relegated to nibbling on toast (hold the butter) or a fruit plate.

So, when I saw that City O’City, an iconic vegetarian restaurant in Capitol Hill, had recently added a vegan and gluten-free version of chicken and waffles to the menu, I was intrigued. How on earth had the kitchen managed to make this classically indulgent dish vegan? And most important: Was it good?

My curiosity piqued, I grabbed a table and ordered the dish. The “chicken” and waffle plate was a sight to behold with savory gluten-free waffles, golden pieces of chicken-fried cauliflower, crispy carrot “bacon” strips, chive crème fraîche (made from vegan sour cream), and house-made bourbon-maple syrup.

The cauliflower, which had been brined in bourbon, was encased in spiced batter for a satisfying crunch and slight sweetness that paired well with the savory waffle. I coaxed a bit of cauliflower, waffle, carrot, crème fraîche, and maple syrup into one glorious forkful, and the blend of flavors did not disappoint.

Tip: Pair the chicken and waffles with Renegade Brewing Company’s Hiatus, a cold-coffee infused oatmeal ale, and you’ve got the makings of one decadent and delicious meal. Or, since City O’City’s chicken and waffles is available during lunch and dinner, sip it with the Espíritu Negro cocktail. This dark blend of cold-brew coffee, agave, green Chartreuse, and bitters was concocted specifically to complement the dish.

206 E. 13th Ave., 303-831-6443