Go Now: Stoic & Genuine

The short season for soft-shell crab is upon us. This year, however, availability of the sought-after seafood is even more limited as the Chesapeake Bay’s stocks are down (due in large part to an unusually cold winter). Make the most of the catch at Stoic & Genuine, the new restaurant from Jennifer Jasinski and Beth Gruitch. Here, chef de cuisine Jorel Pierce lightly batters and fries the crab before plating it with corn masa soup and a garnish of radish and lime. Cut a small piece from the crab (gotta make it last) and dredge it through the rich soup. Add a sliver of radish to each spoonful and enjoy the juxtaposition of crispy, sweet, and fresh. This is summer.

Bonus: Stoic & Genuine’s knockout, below-the-hull-like space was designed by Denver-based Boss Architecture. No matter where you sit, don’t forget to look up at the fishing-inspired light fixtures and the sand dune fencing that transforms the high ceiling. This restaurant and its design are reason enough to celebrate Union Station’s renaissance.

Across town: Hungry for more soft-shell crab? Try chef Justin Brunson‘s take at Old Major. The just-fried crab arrives claws in the air and ringed with a wedge of Denver Bacon Co.’s fresh bacon, avocado mousse, charred cherry tomatoes, and dollops of tarragon aïoli.

Stoic & Genuine, 1701 Wynkoop St., 303-640-3474

Old Major, 3316 Tejon St., 720-420-0622