Acorn is such a good restaurant, for so many different kinds of diners, it makes battling the traffic hell that is current-day Brighton Boulevard worth the effort. Parents go to the street-art-adorned RiNo spot with their teenage offspring in an attempt to retain whatever cool cred they still have. First daters go to discover each other’s dining quirks: Will she go for the Parmesan-crusted soft pretzel with Calabrian chile butter? Will he take the last bite of Taleggio-filled agnolotti or offer it up? Couples familiar with one another order more than the suggested two plates per person, splurging on dishes like charred broccolini with Manchego and almonds; poke-esque ahi tuna with watermelon and fresh jalapeño salsa; and olive-oil-braised lamb, lightened by fresh spinach and mint and punctuated with crispy marbles of fried house-made ricotta. All are masterfully seasoned by chef-owner Steven Redzikowski and talented chef de cuisine Kate Horton. Even desserts avoid over-sweetness; the tang of puréed, roasted Palisade peaches sings when offset by white chocolate mousse and a vanilla-flecked ice cream quenelle. Just leave extra time to get there. The Source, 3350 Brighton Blvd., 720-542-3721

Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen
Denise Mickelsen is 5280’s former food editor. She oversaw all of 5280’s food-related coverage from October 2016 to March 2021.