Eat & Drink

Scandinavia Rising

At Trillium, chef-owner Ryan Leinonen serves crisp, beautiful Nordic flavors.

September 2012

Trillium - 3 1/2 stars

2134 Larimer St.
303-379-9759
trilliumdenver.com 

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The Draw: Clean, ingredient-driven dishes influenced by the cuisine of Scandinavia; an open, modern space in the Ballpark neighborhood.

The Drawback: Parking can be a challenge; occasionally, the noise level rises to the point of distraction; and a couple of items (portobello fries; beet-and-cardamom pudding) don’t live up to other dishes on the menu. 

Don’t Miss: Lemon and dill pickled shrimp; gazpacho; open ravioli of grilled blue prawns; seared duck breast with caraway spaetzle; pan-roasted chicken breast 

with egg noodles; steelhead trout raaka.

Price: $$$ (Average price per entrée: $26)

Food: 3 1/2 stars

Service: 3 1/2 stars

Ambience: 3 1/2 stars

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It’s a safe bet that until recently, not many Coloradans gave the countries of Scandinavia—Sweden, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Denmark—much thought. But then Stieg Larsson’s Millennium Trilogy transported the imagination of the reading public to Sweden; Ikea opened a 415,000-square-foot citadel of Scandinavian design in Centennial; and Copenhagen’s Noma was named the best restaurant in the world by Restaurant magazine (based on a poll of more than 800 industry insiders). Suddenly, or so it seemed, the cold Nordic north was hot-hot-hot.

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