Surette Provision Saison, Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project, Denver

Style: Saison

ABV: 6.2 percent

Serving Type: 12.7-ounce bottle

Malty? Hoppy? Neither; tart, citrus flavors

Reviewed: March 2014

Four years ago, a little brewery with a curious name, the Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project, opened in a somewhat rundown office park on the north end of the Sunnyside neighborhood. Not long after, the Denver beer scene began to buzz about the brewery’s Belgian and sour concoctions. Beer fanatics lined up outside the tiny space to grab special release bottles of head brewer Chad Yakobson’s handiwork. (Barrel aging is key to Crooked Stave’s beer, and Yakobson is the one who carefully tends to the brew in each barrel.)

Since our first visit to the brewery—which recently moved to a location inside The Source—we’ve tasted much of Crooked Stave’s always rotating lineup, and the Surette Provision Saison quickly became our go-to. Surette is well balanced; the sourness doesn’t overshadow the pleasant citrus and fruit notes (green apple, perhaps). What’s more, Surette’s light, crisp, and dry character is refreshing. We’re always pleased when we stumble upon this brew on tap around the Mile High City.

Would we buy it again? While Surette, and most of Crooked Stave’s craft beer, certainly warrants its higher price tag (around $7 for a 375 ml bottle), it does keep us from stocking up each time we’re at the liquor store. But if you’re in the mood for a crisp, tart saison, and don’t mind spending a few extra bucks, this is your beer.